Saturday, July 30, 2005

Nanjing

The train for Nanjing left at 8:30 AM. Naturally, we left our apartment at 8:15 AM. After a 2 minute walk/run to the subway station and a 4 minute wait for the subway, it was now 8:21 AM. We got to the train station at 8:29 AM. And, after another walk/run (more run than walk), we were on board by 8:30 AM. BUT, when we went to get our seats, we found people sitting there and only then realized that we had gotten on the wrong train (the 8:37 train). It wasn't a huge deal. For some reason, the two super-fast two-hour express trains to Nanjing leave 7 minutes apart. But we had to spend some time looking for new seats.

The first stop was the Nanjing Museum. These are the bastards who won't let me see their tomb epitaphs. They told me that if I wanted to see their epitaphs, I needed to fax them a letter explaining my research. Which I did. I called them a few days later and they told me they had lost my letter and I needed to fax it again. Which I did. I waited another day to call and they told me I couldn't see their epitaphs because they're too heavy to move. Why didn't they tell me that to begin with? So I asked them if I could see rubbings of the epitaphs. Needless to say, the answer was no. Presumably, as soon as they ascertained for sure that I was white (and not an American-born Chinese), it was an easy decision to forbid me to see their stuff. Despite the fact that the museum is run by racist bastards, their collection includes a few items that made the trip worthwhile, including a Western Han jade burial suit and inscribed bricks from a 5th century tomb depiciting the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove.

It was oppressively muggy when we first arrived in Nanjing; I was relieved to see signs of an impending thunder storm as we left the museum. We made it to a restaurant for lunch just in time to escape the downpour. Then, we took a cab to the forested Zijinshan (purple-gold mountain); more precisely, we took a cab most of the way to the mountain, until the cabbie got lost, and then walked the rest of the way. Gina really likes climbing mountains, so the chairlift to the top was pretty much out of the question. After a year of Chinese polution, it was a delight to breath in the fresh air of a forest after rain. There was another brief downpour during our ascent, so we did not spend as much time on the mountain as would have been otherwise possible (and took the chairlift back down).

We then decided to visit the tomb of the first Ming emperor (the capital of China was in Nanjing for the first 50 years of the Ming). We didn't actually go in because the ticket was too expensive, but we did see it from the outside:

Ming Xiaoling

In addition, part of the spirit path, which marks the lengthy approach to an imperial tomb, lay between two lanes of the public road, so we were able to examine several fine 15th-century statues:

Ming Xiaoling (spirit path)

Ming Xiaoling (spirit path)

Ming Xiaoling (spirit path)

We continued south along the same road until we reached the city wall, a very impressive structure that survives almost intact along most of its 30-mile course.

Nanjing city wall

Old Ming-period bricks were neatly stacked in front of the wall, all bearing the names of the brickmakers or the people in charge of the brickmaking. This brick was made in Jiangxi Province:

Inscribed brick from Nanjing city wall

For a change of scene, we then took a cab to the center of town (Xinjiekou) to try to get a glimpse of modern Nanjing. Numerous unmemorable department stores were clustered around a pedestrian zone. After a bowl of noodles, we headed to Nanjing West Station for the trip back to Shanghai.

Saturday, July 23, 2005

Super Brand Mall

Yesterday, we went to Super Brand Mall, in Pudong. An interesting building with a very uninteresting name. The Mall reminded me a little of the Kyoto train station, with the central axis extending upward along a series of escalators and staircases.

Super Brand Mall

The grocery store in the basement had everything. We bought lots of fruits (durian, mangosteen, peaches, plums, etc.). And if you reached the check-out counter and realized you had forgotten to buy toothpaste and batteries, you were in luck:

Toothpaste & batteries

I mean, it's perfect if you forgot to buy 6 batteries and toothpaste. But what happens if you forgot to buy 6 batteries, toothpaste, AND catfood? I think they should start selling a package of 6 batteries, toothpaste, AND a one-day supply of catfood.

Sunday, July 17, 2005

Fashion update

Today, for the first time, I wore my "lao wai lai le...lao wai zou le" t-shirt, which I purchased in Dali in December. On the front, it states that "the foreigner has arrived" and on the back "the foreigner has gone." The word used for foreigner is considered slightly derogatory by some (and rapidly changes to "foreign guest" or other overly polite term when the person has realized that you understand them when they're talking about you in Chinese). Anyways, it was a sensation! Absolutely everybody was reading the t-shirt and laughing (mainly because they didn't even know foreigners knew about that word they use when referring to us). I have never worn ANYTHING that has attracted so much attention. In fact, I have never SEEN anybody wear anything that has attracted so much attention. Caught me kind of by surprise. Anyways, here is the t-shirt. Did you ever think a clothing item so plain could make such an impression?

My new t-shirt

On another fashion note, we went for a walk after dinner, to a mall known as "Time Square". It's very close to our place, but I had never been. In the basement was a foreigner's dream supermarket, with such delicacies as Campbell's soup and Prego tomato sauce. I bought some frozen bagels. We then went up to the top floor, where there is a movie theater. But there were no good movies showing (just a bunch of ancient Hong Kong flicks). On our way back out, we passed by a Calvin Klein Jeans store that was loudly advertising "Sale! 40%-90% Off!". If it's really 90% off, I'm buying it, I told myself. So I walked in and asked where the 90% off items were. They pointed to a rack and said everything there was 40%-90% off. I replied that I didn't want something 40% off, 50% off, or even 80% off. I wanted something 90% off. The guy found the ONE item that was 90% off. A red wind-breaker. Just what I needed on this steamy summer night! It was $115 before the discount. I paid $11.50. That's cheap for a wind-breaker, right? Except I think it's a little too big and it might be for women...

New jacket

By the way, these photos were taken in the bathroom, because I don't like the flash on my camera. The bathroom has very bright heat lamps on the ceiling...perfect for taking pictures at night. Here's a nice picture of Little Sister in the bathroom:

Little Sister in the bathroom

Hopefully the above description of this picture won't attract too many child porn pervs.

Friday, July 15, 2005

Suzhou

July 10 (Sunday) [several photos courtesy of Andres & Paulina]

Last Sunday, on Andres & Paulina's second day in Shanghai, we took the train to Suzhou. The fastest express train takes 40 minutes. I had been to Suzhou in April, and preferred seeing gardens I had not seen just three months ago. But I did take everybody (A&P + Gina and Little Sister) to see the Master of the Nets (my favorite):

Master of the Nets

Master of the Nets

Master of the Nets

After lunch, we headed out to the west side of town to see the Lingering Garden (one that I had seen with my mother a few years ago but that I had not seen in March).

Lingering Garden

Lingering Garden

Lingering Garden

Lingering Garden

Lingering Garden

Lingering Garden

It was very hot that day (that's probably why Andres looks so unhappy in the last picture), so we did not squeeze in a third garden before returning to Shanghai. While A&P and Little Sister went shopping, Gina took me to a promising bookstore that she had noticed during one of the cab rides. I bought volume 13 of Zhongguo shufa quanji (Complete Chinese Calligraphy).

Wednesday, July 13, 2005

Andres & Paulina in Shanghai

July 9 (Saturday) [all photos courtesy of A&P]

Andres & Paulina arrived from the US on Friday, in the evening. The next day, after breakfast (shaolongbao and pork puffs), we went to a couple of places in Shanghai I had never been to. First, the Fabric Market on Dongjiadu Road (where we bought two peacock feathers for Maomao). Here I am with Andres at the fabric market:

Dongjiadu Road Fabric Market

We took a peek at the Dongjiadu Cathedral as well, though it was closed for renovation (or demolition?). Not too far away was the Sanshan Guild Hall, built in the early 20th century for merchants from Fujian Province.

Sanshan Guild Hall

According to our guide book, the guild hall was supposed to house the Shanghai Museum of Folk Collectibles. But it seemed to be now housing some sort of anti-Japanese exhibit.

After an uninspiring lunch of noodle soup, the next stop was the bazaar, which I had been carefully avoiding since my arrival in Shanghai (too many tourists and too many rip-offs). Although I had been to the bazaar about 5 years ago, I had never seen the City God Temple.

City God Temple (Shanghai)

We picked up some snacks back in the bazaar: Dairy Queen for Andres & Paulina, shaved ice for me (the ice was hard and no good), and, for Gina, a large juicy dumpling (that is consumed with a straw):

Juicy dumpling

Finally, on the way home, after buying train tickets for the next day, we stopped in the park behind our apartment.

Garden by our apartment

Thursday, July 07, 2005

I just took this survey

Take the MIT Weblog Survey

Sunday, July 03, 2005

Happy birthday to me!

Today is my 30th birthday. As of midnight last night, I am officially old.

Last night, we went to Judy Too, and it was there that I became old. Gina was able to capture the very moment on film (to use an antiquated expression). The metamorphosis from young Nick to old Nick was very rapid, so the picture is slightly blurry:

metamorphosis

For comparison, here are pictures of young Nick and old Nick taken at only a few minutes apart. I think the change is very obvious.

young Nick Old Nick

Young Nick appears young and robust. Old Nick's head isn't on straight.

Judy Too is my favorite bar in Shanghai (I haven't been to that many, though). Usually there is a scantily clad female who dances on top of the bar, but today she was serving drinks fully dressed. I asked her why and she said the police wouldn't let her dance anymore. Gina and I were very disappointed.

Saturday, July 02, 2005

Purchasing plane tickets in China

Two friends visiting from the States asked us to purchase tickets from Beijing to Shanghai for them since Chinese domestic tickets are much (i.e. four times) cheaper if purchased in China. This situation had two requirements: 1) we had to buy tickets from Beijing to Shanghai despite the fact that we were presently in Shanghai (this was a problem because most travel agents in Shanghai only have discounted tickets on flights leaving Shanghai, not on flights to Shanghai); 2) because we wouldn't go to Beijing to meet our friends, we needed to buy electronic tickets (relatively new in China). The total process of purchasing the two tickets took two full eight-hour days. Below is a detailed account.

Day 1. Morning

We first tried to purchase the tickets on yoee.com. We used to use yoee in Beijing to buy electronic tickets. They always screwed up somehow or another (badly misspelled passenger names despite the names being spelled correctly when entered in on their webpage forms; sometimes they also forgot to send us the tickets; etc.), but we always got the tickets in the end. In Beijing, we either payed on-line using a Beijing bank account (that we had spent considerable time setting up to allow us to make payments on-line) or we payed when they hand delivered the tickets. We had closed that particular bank account when we left Beijing and yoee does not have a Shanghai office, so neither of these options were available. Yoee has an option to use credit cards, so we tried that. After spending a good half hour filling in all the forms, we discovered the first problem: our friends had two-word surnames and the computer refused to accept these names. So we called yoee and had them manually enter the names; they then told us to go back on-line and use the webpage to pay for the tickets. We went back to the webpage, navigated to where we entered the payment info. I selected the "Mastercard" radio button and entered in my Mastercard number. The payment failed. Now with yoee, if a payment fails, you have to call the company so that they can clear the record and allow you to try the payment again. We called them up and first asked if we could just give the credit card number over the phone. They told us this was not possible and that we had to pay on-line; they told us to wait 20 minutes to clear the previous failed payment and then try again. We waited, tried again, and the payment failed again. We called yoee again; they put us on hold; then they explained that the Mastercard feature was not yet implemented (despite the fact that the web page allowed you to select Mastercard as your credit card!); you could only use Visa to make payments. I used to have one Citibank Visa and one Citibank Mastercard; but at one point about 3 or 4 years ago, my Visa was converted into a Mastercard (without my consent and without any warning), so I no longer have a Visa card.

Day 1. Late Morning
So we gave up on yoee, and tried to use a Shanghai-based company, ctrip. Now ctrip has a website for ordering tickets, but, unfortunately, they cannot issue electronic tickets on-line (only over the phone). So we bypassed the webpage altogether and called the company directly. This meant that we had to spell out our friends' foreign names over the telephone. It took about 30 minutes for them to get it right. Then they asked for our friends' passport numbers. We knew that passport numbers are required for domestic flights in China, so we were prepared. Then, something unexpected happened. They asked for our friends' dates of birth. We have bought dozens of domestic tickets in China over the past two years and never encountered this requirement. I didn't know the dates of birth. Was it possible to leave this blank? No. The system couldn't process the tickets without dates of birth. In retrospect, it probably would have been a good idea to just make up some dates, but we gave up with ctrip at this point, and went out for a quick lunch before continuing our mission.

Day 1. Afternoon
We next decided to try to use yoee again, but this time use our Shanghai bank account to pay directly. Gina was under the impression that when she had opened the account, she had asked to have it activated for on-line payments. We called yoee first to clear the account again so that we could reattempt to pay. There was some information on the yoee webpage about how to set up the bank payment for our particular bank (a Shanghai branch of the Bank of China). We downloaded the necessary browser helper object so we could use internet explorer to make the payment. This took a while because of the slow connection. We then tried to pay. The payment failed. We then went to the Bank of China, waited in line, and asked a representative what we needed to do. He gave us a phone number to call. We went back home and Gina called the number. They gave us some additional information which we tried. It still didn't work. At this point, yoee also told us that an excessive number of payments had failed and that the system would not allow us to purchase any additional tickets that day. It was about 5 pm by then and we figured that we would try again the next day.

Day 2. Morning
At this point, we tried another approach. The airplane tickets we wanted were for a Hainan Airlines flight, so we tried calling the Shanghai branch of Hainan Airlines directly. A woman answered the phone and told us that she didn't know if they could issue electronic tickets or not and that the person who knew wasn't in yet. We took a break to have breakfast. We called Hainan Airlines and the person who knew about electronic tickets told us he'd look into it and call us back. We waited. Eventually, he called us back and told us they could not issue electronic tickets for flights to Shanghai (only for flights departing Shanghai); we were directed to call the Beijing office. It occurred to us to check yoee again to see if any other airlines had cheap tickets (prices can suddenly drop on any given day). To our horror, we discovered that the cheap tickets we had tried to purchase the day before were no longer available and that only substantially more expensive tickets were now for sale. We didn't know what to do. Gina thought that yoee perhaps still had a hold on the tickets we tried to get yesterday and called them. They did indeed still have a hold on those tickets. But this meant that we had no choice but to use yoee. The Beijing bank account we had used in the past to pay for yoee tickets was a China Construction Bank account. So we decided to open up a China Construction Bank account in Shanghai and try to pay for the yoee ticket on-line that way. It was about a one hour wait at the bank before we could be helped. During the wait, I explained to Gina that Bank of America had just bought a 10% stake in China Construction Bank, partly because it was one of the least corrupt of Chinese banks (last year, a mere sixty thousand China Construction Bank employees had been disciplined). We had no problem opening the account. The woman then told us to wait in another line (only 20 minute wait) to activate the account for on-line purchases. Having succeeded with the first step of our new plan, we took a quick lunch break.

Day 2. Afternoon
We were very eager to try out our new approach. We logged onto yoee and navigated to the payment page. Access denied. We called up yoee and they told us that the tickets had not yet been cleared since the failed payments the day before. They told us to try again in 30 minutes. We waited 30 minutes and then logged onto yoee again. They had actually created new ticket entries in their system (at this point misspelling our friends' names, though not too badly, so we decided not to worry too much about it). We entered in the account information from our new China Construction Bank account. The payment failed. We called a China Construction Bank hotline for on-line payments and asked what the problem was. The guy said he'd get back to us. After about 30 minutes, he called back and said that new account numbers could not be used for on-line payments because the first four digits of all new account numbers were not recognized by the processing system; only older account numbers with older first four digits could be used. We then called yoee again and asked if they had any suggestions on how to pay them. They did not. We asked if we could wire money directly to yoee's corporate bank account. The lady on the phone checked with her supervisor and found out that this was a possibility. She gave us the account numbers we needed and we headed back to the China Construction Bank to wire the money. After waiting for an hour, we reached the counter and were given forms to fill out. After we filled them out, the person at the counter told us that 1) we had filled out the wrong forms; 2) we had to go to the counter for corporate finance; 3) money could not be wired directly from our account but needed to be withdrawn from the ATM first. We waited in line at the corporate finance counter. After a complex process involving three different forms (and the need to enter our account number multiple times...despite the fact that we had now withdrawn the money and were asking them to wire cash), the money was wired. We then called up yoee and told them we had wired the money and that they should receive the money within 24 hours. They replied that we would lose the hold on our reservation if we did not pay for the tickets that very day. We told them we had already wired the money. They did not believe us. Finally, they agreed to issue the ticket if we faxed them copies of the receipts from the bank proving that we had wired the money. Unfortunately, it had suddenly started to rain, a veritable downpour. Nevertheless, the clock was ticking, so I braved the rain with the bank receipts deep in my pocket (protected from the rain) and walked over to the nearest fax place (a 15 minute walk). I faxed the documents, waited for it to stop raining, and returned home. We called yoee to confirm receipt. The person on the phone said she had no idea if any faxes had been received but that we could call back in 30 minutes and she would tell us. We waited 30 minutes, called, and got confirmation that the fax was received and that the tickets would be issued. By then, it was about 6 pm.